The cool water shocks my toes as I step in. I carry a long surfboard, and the tiny waves lap against my ankles. I trot deeper and hop onto my board, and the sun beams down on my wetsuit. I spread out my arms like a bird and start motoring toward where the waves start. I spot a whitecap behind me, and I let it break under my board. One of them starts forming in the distance, and I feel a prickle on the back of my neck. I know this wave is the one.
I twist around and start vigorously paddling, and I sense the wave getting bigger. I paddle a few more times and the wave catches me. I pop up onto my feet. The water sprays my face and I bend down and feel the crisp water race before my fingers. A barrel starts chasing me, and I willingly give in and let myself shoot the tube. Salty whitewater plunges down and gets tangled in my wet hair. I can see the fluffy foam inching closer to me, a signal that my ride is almost over. Reluctantly, I dive through the giant mass of water and back into the aqua colored liquid. The sun is setting and the sky is painted in bright pink, orange and purple hues. The board drags behind me, and I hop back on, excited to catch lots more combers. 
